*(We’ll Always Have Paris – Oops, I Mean Corsica)
April 30 (reminder to readers to please enjoy this on your computer and not a smart phone)
(Zdraveite* from Sofia, Bulgaria) *=Hello in Bulgarian)
I see it has been almost two weeks since our last chapter was sent out. Mon Dieu! This particular chapter will not cover our current home but I wanted to let you know we were on the road again!
When we last wrote, Nancy & I were about to leave Calvi and head to Porto Vecchio in the far Sud of Corsica. We we were going to be there a week and then have two more days on island before heading to Sofia. What could have been a three hour drive turned into eight hours start to finish because of some typical Nancy & Chris reasons – beautiful scenery and food* being high on that list.
*Note the QUINOA in Nancy’s salad below…!
Here is our approximate route…..please note the twists and turns that we took!
When we finally arrived in PV, this is the view that confronted us from our terrasse – we are three for three on our accommodations selections!
Of course, there is no free lunch – that view was 54 stairs from the the street – a cheap price to pay – especially since we were used to the 123 stairs from Bastia (did I mention last time that the Calvi apartment was on the 1st floor AND there was an elevator?)
PV is known for a few things – beaches, islands and ahem – A CITADEL! Let’s talk about the bastion first. Again, the Genovese were worried about others stealing what they just stole so they built this place to fight off like minded people. The Pisans were their big bogeymen but this being the Mediterranean, there were lots of marauding marauders.
The PV Citadel is quite vital. More so than the two previous ones, this place is hopping. Here is the view of Porto Vecchio from the top:
There are many shops, restaurants, bars, offices and homes all within the walls. The very narrow streets are bustling with deliveries, scooters and cars as well as pietons (pedestrians) all co-existing peacefully. We have been amazed all over the island with the patience of other drivers when one stops in the petite rues to make a delivery or even to stop and chat with a friend. No beeping, cursing or light flashing. There is no place for anyone to pull over for their stop so right in the middle is the only option. We have seen backups of up to 10 minutes without a murmur. Here is a snap of an instance where a driver stopped to parley with an amie:
Parking is tight in the Citadel:
Our typical day in PV (as well as the other stops in Corsica) is breakfast in the apartment then walk either to the Port of PV or the Citadel and have coffee and watch the world wake up. Then more exploring, lunch, wander and sightsee, then sundowners, dinner and home. There MAY be a nap in there somewhere. Here are a bundle of PV pics:
That is me munching a Banette – NOT a baguette. As a semi-artisan baker myself, I appreciate the dedication to the cause by my fellow purists. (Also – check out http://www.communityloaves.org)
So, up the page I mentioned beaches – especially those in the south. They are amazing. You will note the lack of people – the season has not yet started. In the summer though, it is grain to grain covered in chairs, sunscreen, families and revelers. These are several of the top plages in the area – Plage U Benedettu, St Cyprian, Palambaggio, Santa Giulia & Rondinara.
After a little iced espresso pickmeup at the Palapa stand, we walked hand in hand down the sand to a place we happened on (we love doing that) called Playa Baggia – a fabulous chairs-and-tables-in-the sand restaurant. It was huge! Two big kitchens (not on the sand), full bar, kids play area (the beach), chaise lounges set up with umbrellas and a great menu. It was Sunday so it was packed with Corsican families, friends and kids all enjoying their time together!
While we are STILL on beaches – some of them are famous for their red rocks
We did a waterfall “cascade” (in Corsican) hike – you know how I love waterfalls! This hike was rated ‘easy’ by the person who wrote the guide. That is a subjective term in Corsica I feel. Or, there was something lost in translation? It was not HARD, but it was not easy either. It was glorious though!
Nancy here: this was one of the most rigorous hikes that i have ever done….climbing over boulders, scrambling down steep rocks and uneven paths for 3 miles plus-round trip – and all the while making sure that we were following the trail marked with a sometimes-difficult-to-read swatch of yellow paint. (But spectacular….OUI!)
Back in PV we often hopped on the little free electric bus to take a mini tour of different neighborhoods. Everyone who got on the bus ALWAYS said “Bonjour” to the driver and “Merci.”
We made sure we did too!
The Place (pronounced in French not English) in front of St Jean-Baptiste church at the citadel is always very active and full of life. Restaurants, cafes, bars and a calliope (aka merry-go-round). Our favorite waiter, Cedric, kept drinks and olives moving to the tables of contented patrons sitting there for the sunset in the evenings and for a coffee in the mornings. And, perhaps some glacé (gelato) at anytime.
When researching PV months ago, I expected we would be spending most of our time in the New Town at the harbour. The area was quite nice and closer by a few minutes walk to our apartment than the Citadel but just not as vibrant. In the summer, I would say the opposite would be true. Lots of boat excursions up and down the coast and even to Sardinia. We did have some mornings there and dinners as well, including sushi.
We have another favorite person in PV – Catarina who is the only waitress at this restaurant. Great small place – but if you go there, they do not take credit cards…cash only.
Remember up above I mentioned we had the remaining two days on island with no place yet planned? Well, while in PV we decided to head to the southern tip of Corsica to Bonifacio. We booked a hotel and an 8 mile, 1 hour ferry trip to Sardinia for the day after arriving there. It was to be a same day round trip. We would go over to Italy for lunch! Well, the best laid plans…
Due to strong wind and waves, the return ferry was canceled the day we arrived in Bonifacio. Oh well, the bright side (“Always look on the bright side of life…”) was we would have another day to roam – yup, you guessed it – another Citadel. THE BEST YET!!! It was also the only time in Corsica that we were surrounded by MANY tourists. Speaking of tourists, in our 3 weeks here, we have not met nor heard any American voices….mostly French, Italian and Spanish.
Sand). It fell off the cliffs some time ago – it was not my fault!
We had a terrific dinner here
The next morning we were having breakfast and Nancy asked me something about our flight the next day from Bastia back to Marseilles where we were spending the night before flying out to Bulgaria. I whipped out my phone to check my travel app (Tripit is awesome – especially the Pro version). What do I my eyes behold? An Air Traffic Controllers union strike has been called for tomorrow! Zut Alors! Marseilles is heavily hit by cancelations including our own darn plane. Shoot, what to do? We spoke to the receptionist at the hotel and she suggested that we check out early and head north to try to rearrange our schedule. (no penalty charge, either)
Air Corsica was not answering their help line. Mon Dieu! I tried various options and eventually we booked an overnight ferry that night from Bastia (where we were dropping our rental at the airport) to Toulon and from there we would need to train-it to Marseilles.
While we were sitting at this lovely lunch spot, the airline emailed me they moved us from the canceled 3:30 flight to an 8:30 departure.
I then canceled the ferry tickets and booked a hotel in Bastia. By the time we boarded the flight and took off, it was 10pm – we shoulda taken the 11 hour ferry ride. Oh well. Just one of the joys of travel…sometimes you need Plan B and somedays you don’t!
Despite the strike (which was called off btw), and now the speeding ticket, we LOVE France. Especially Corsica! If only fewer people there smoked and vaped! (It seemed like even more than we experienced in previous trips to the mainland). Not indoors but it is not much fun when you are sitting outside at a restaurant and the guys at the next table finish their meals and all light up. Many younger people and it seems especially women have taken up the habit.
One of our experiences of life on the island is the seemingly unending politeness, happiness and Joie de Vivre! It is a joy to be surrounded by shining happy people! It is no surprise that the word “Corsica” means “Island of Beauty!)
So, we are back on the mainland with a morning departure through Vienna to Sofia to meet my cousin, his wife and seven year old son. They have been living there for several years and you will meet them in the next chapter.
Until then, see ya around.
много любов (lots of love in Bulgarian)
Nancy & Chris
chrisnnancy 